Style Primer: Three-Piece Suit
The Jacket
The Collar
The collar of your jacket should fit against your neck, but without any of that buckling and pulling.
Shoulder Pads
Much-maligned shoulder pads can help you look more muscular. You can look trimmer overall, so while extreme shoulder pads don’t look good, average ones will.
Lapels
Choose high or low notch depending on what flatters your personal shape. Be sure that the lapels lie flat against your chest and don’t buckle uncomfortably.
Sleeves
Your sleeves should end where your wrist ends and your hand begins. A quarter inch of your shirt sleeve should show below the sleeves, but just check and make sure that you are comfortable. Stretch your arms out and bend them to verify that you’re comfortable moving in your suit.
Buttons
Use your buttons as a way of flattering your particular body shape. You should always leave the bottom button undone, and if you have an athletic build, you should have a low button stance below the lapels. Otherwise, try a high button stance to disguise any roundness.
Vents
Side vents can disguise a larger behind, while a single vent can work with most average body types and is a lot easier to find!
The Suit Waistcoat or Vest
The vest of your three-piece suit will commonly have a back adjuster so you can get just the right fit on yours. You can also use two side adjusters, which may be located on suits that are either hand-tailored or ones that have an original or unusual design. The vest should be adjusted so it fits smoothly against your torso, but make sure it’s comfortable for a full range of movement. Try your vest both sitting and standing to make sure that it doesn’t balloon or bind.
The Trousers
Check the fit of your trousers. The seat of the pants themselves should not bag or hang. Trousers should be the first thing fitted when you are getting professional tailoring or alterations done, and you should sit and stand to check the fit of your three-piece suit. Pinning can often change the length of your trouser legs, so it’s essential to get your tailor to pin the lines alterations instead of just chalking the marks. Your three-piece suit can either be left plain or cuffed.
Waist
Avoid tight waistlines, which will only emphasize extra pounds. You need to be able to comfortably sit and slide your fingers into the waistband comfortably.
Pleats
Pleats look good on a man with a fuller stomach. Flaunt your thin figure without pleats!
Cuffs
While short men aren’t particularly flattered in cuffed trousers, taller men look good with cuffs. They add weight to the bottom of your slacks, but are recommended only up to 1 inch or 2.54 centimeters.
Shirt and Tie
Don’t forget about these essentials! You won’t just wear a three-piece suit without these. Plain white and blue shirts will certainly work, but don’t forget about some extra stylish combinations in more trendy colors. Match your tie accordingly, and depending on your office environment, you may want to try mixing in a pattern like an updated paisley or stripes.
Pattern and Colors
Try a solid color if you plan to wear your suit often or want it to be a wardrobe builder. You can also try pinstripe for an executive effect. Recommended colors for your three-piece suit are beige, blue, and gray. Black can be too severe, and green and tan can make your look to conservative.
Fabrics
Consider the right fabrics for your suit partially by climate and also by durability. Choose these recommended fabrics for your suit:
• Top recommended fabrics: wool and wool blends. As a general rule, the higher the wool content, the richer the fabric will look. There are four kinds of wools available: tweed, flannel, tropical, and worsted. Tropical is recommended for those in a hot climate who still want to look of wool.
• Polyester should only be chosen if it looks like wool and is some type of blend with another fiber. Polyester won’t wrinkle as badly as wool, which can be excellent for travelers.
• Cotton or linen can be impressive, but aren’t suitable for long wear.
• Avoid fabrics like 100% rayon, corduroy, mohair, nylon, silk, or denim.
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